A Breath of Fresh Air for Kosher Food

Who would have thought that one of the best Kosher chefs in New York is a Muslim named Dulal Hoque! An immigrant who learned his culinary skills abroad, Hoque is the chef de cuisine at Infini, a new French restaurant located in the East Village. Aspiring to emulate the finest Continental establishments, Infini is a refined establishment replete with a live musician walking around to each table playing the violin to any number you like. The decor is extremely chic, with high ceilings, bottles of wine on the tables, and my personal favorite, plenty of space between tables for private conversations (perfect for shidduch date).

The Manager/Maitre'd/Waiter was frustratingly unfamiliar with the menu, which was written in french (even though he is Israeli). The restaurant being newly opened, I forgave his ignorance, even after he had to come around and read my selections off my menu after I pointed to them.

For an appetizer, I ordered sweetbreads and chicken roulade, both of which were bursting with flavor and done to perfection. The sweetbreads were moist and marinated just right, while the chicken was wrapped around portobello mushrooms and served in a wine reduction. After licking my plate clean, it was now appropriate to open the bottle of merlot gracing my table.

Now, like many of you know, I consider myself a world class expert on steaks. I don't, however, read French. But when I saw an item on the menu for over $40, I knew that no self respecting establishment would offer anything else for that price except for BEEF! I told the waiter that I wanted the mother of all steaks, and he said, "No, you serious?" After ascertaining that it would be no problem to order, I sat for next 45 minutes waiting in anticipation for my gargantuan piece of meat. Every 5 to 10 minutes the waiter would come over and tell me that it takes a long time to cook such a large steak.

Finally, the moment of truth arrived. The steak was served on dish so large, that a small Cuban family could have defected on it. The fries and grilled vegetables flanking the steak served only as window dressing and didn't even merit my attentions, which were focused solely on Hoque's culinary masterpiece. As thick as a chemistry textbook, the steak was one of the largest pieces of meat I've ever laid eyes upon. Grilled until the fat sizzled, the steak provided for a gustatory delight. The initial bite exploded into a taste overload in my mouth while the meat's juices seeped onto the plate. In my opinion, it is the best restaurant steak available in New York City.

When I had finished devouring Chef Hoque's magnificent creation, I flaunted my empty plate to the waiter and asked him jokingly where the rest of the steak was. The waiter laughed off my comment, and offered me some dessert, but at this point I was hoping to get more meat,still fixated on Dulals' delectable meat.

Dessert consisted of a choice of fresh fruit, blackout cake or pecan pie. Naturally I said "yes"to all (which means I had one of each). Neither was particularly remarkable, yet the presentation was skillful, with fresh strawberries and powdered cinnamon encompassing the sweet treats.

Dulal Hoque, the Muslim Master of Kosher food, is well educated and well versed in the fine art of cooking. He claims French haute cuisine as his personal specialty, having studied under world-class masters in Quebec and elsewhere. When asked how it feels to be cooking kosher, Hoque replied, "I obviously cannot use cream or butter, but it's not much different because I don't eat pork. However, the Rabbi's don't let me use certain herbs because they are to hard to clean."

Regrettably, the steak did cost a fortune, but let me just say "it was worth every penny." Other items on the menu are more reasonably priced, and all the meat is Chassidishe shechitah under the supervision of the Crown Heights Beis Din. While not being a place for children, Infini is artistry of Dulal Hoque, as well as a reputable place to get an exquisite meal.

Atmosphere: Formal, yet relaxed. The dining room is dimly lit, with live music and plenty of space between tables, making it conducive to candle lit dinners. Full bar with a varied wine selection and the standard collection of whiskeys, apertifs and liqueurs. Nicely air-conditioned.

Service: Extremely slow, but well worth the wait for the specialized care given to each item. The help should be better versed in the menu as time progresses.

Sound Level: Pleasant, with the high ceilings and spacious layout allowing for private conversation. The roving violinist also played the piano, providing a counterpart to the relaxing music in the background.

Price: The appetizers eat like a meal and are reasonably priced between nine to twelve dollars. The entrees are more steeply priced, starting at eighteen and up.

Credit Cards: All major credit cards accepted.

Accessibility: The entire restaurant is on one level including washing station and bathrooms.