Table Tips

by Jessica Russak

Gusto Va Mare
Kashrut: OK (O circling K)
Dairy Italian
237 East 53rd St (between 2nd and 3rd Avenues)
Tel: 212-583-9300
Call For Reservations
Restaurant and catering

This brick-walled bistro on the East Side has food that is as authentically Italian as the appearance of the restaurant itself. The atmosphere at Gusto Va Mare is relaxing and chic. Italian operettas play in the background, chiming in at the perfect moments. The lights are dimmed, and the tables are tastefully elegant.
The restaurant appears to be relatively full, yet we are immediately seated. Sergio, our waiter, brings us the most amazing pre-meal rolls and we are at once addicts. He recites a long list of specials eloquently, with words roll off his tongue in such a way that we cannot wait to pore through our leather-bound menus. Despite the array of delectables, Bruschetto, feta cigars, and funghi rotieni top the list, and we can’t resist: We order all three – and every bite is savory.
For our entrees, we decide on penne asparagus, salmon steak, and a lasagna combination. I’m from a fishing town, so my friends watch me intently as I slowly raise the salmon to my lips. It is astonishingly good – every herb, vegetable, sauce and spice is superb. My dish, the lasagna combination, turns out to be four lasagnas replete with different vegetables and cloaked in unique sauces. Flawless. The asparagus penne comes last. I try a bite and realize it has done something exceptional. The pasta itself takes on the blended flavors of the asparagus, herbs, and dressing. Every piece of penne is a pleasure.
The ambience remains wonderful, with nothing pressuring us to make an early exit. Under expert observation, we are given the ideal amount of time to taste and enjoy without even noticing how frequently the waiter refills our water glasses. The restaurant has the elegance of delicately attentive service.
Though the side salads are beyond the pale, the desserts leave us wanting. The cheesecake and chocolate mousse are good, but not on the same plate as the appetizers or entrees. They satisfy a sweet tooth craving, but a better course of events would have been eating at Gusto and finishing off at a dessert café.
Come with a group or on a date, and order courageously. You won’t be disappointed. Even the salmon with chocolate sauce is brilliant. But don’t forego the bruschetto! You won’t forgive yourself if you do.