Volume 67, Issue 8

Table Tips - A Culinary Must!
by Jessica Russak

Danna
212-721-9123
600 Columbus (at West 89^th Street)
Kashrut Level: OK
Moroccan; Meat

Darna is a must! I normally build up to that point, but this time I wanted to lay it all out on the table right from the start. Located on the trendy Upper West Side, Darna is a restaurant that exudes the essence of Morocco, from its walls to its food.

Upon arriving on busy New Year’s Eve – and without a reservation – I was immediately seated. The atmosphere was earthy yet lavish, simple yet extravagant, original yet vintage. Somehow they accomplished this with a remarkable combination of earth-toned paint, Middle-Eastern architecture, and a combination of dimmed lights and classic candles. Even the menus were deliberately aged, which I considered a delightful touch.

As I glanced at the menu, I could hardly decide what to order. Everything looked so amazing, and was described in wonderful detail. The menu told me everything that was in everything, so there were so surprises. In fact, if not for this detailing, I would never have chosen the kubbeh over the Moroccan cigars. But when I read that the kubbeh—in my town we call them “torpedoes” because of their shape—was stuffed with both lamb and beef, I simply couldn’t resist. And this was just the appetizer. During this process, my fiancé, Ari, sampled the pre-meal bread, since I don’t care much for pita. Apparently it’s hot and good. I’m sure if I liked pita bread I’d be able to offer you a better description, and so I apologize and hope that next time there are rolls.

We both ordered soup. I ordered vegetable and he ordered beef and lentil. I must say that both soups were so hearty and amazing…I believe I ate the majority of both bowls. I preferred the beef and lentil because of the fresh cilantro flavoring and the soft meat. I recall now that it was so thick, I was actually able to eat it with a fork.

After kubbeh and two bowls of soup, I couldn’t eat the main course. But I tasted Ari’s: the rib-eye steak with fries and sweet potatoes. Oh my goodness! The meat was juicy and soft and of a very large cut. And the fries, which came in a large separate basket, were the best I’ve had in a very long time.  In fact, everything at Darna comes in large portions – they don’t skimp on anything, and it’s worth the reasonable prices. The service is personable and well-paced.

Overall, if you enjoy Moroccan food, steak, and anything with lots of herbs and flavor, Darna has it in marvelous excess. Their main restaurant is in Jerusalem, but this Manhattan location is the real deal.

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